'We are on the top' - Dialogue on the Gasherbrum I
July 12 marks the date of ascending the top of Gasherbrum I of Tibet Mountaineering Expedition. Ten Chinese and Pakistani members left Camp III at 22:00 of July 11 (Beijing time: 1:00 am of July 12) for the top.
The whole staffers in the Base Camp waited without sleeping.
At 9:20 am of July 12, a call from assistant member sounded in Urdu:"Congratulates to all the members of Chinese-Pakistani Joint Mountaineering Team! We have climbed the top successfully!"
At the same time, another voice of a Tibetan member said:"We have ascended the peak!"
"Tashi Delek, Tashi Delek. Are you Agu?" Samdrup, head of TME called. (Agu means uncle in Tibetan. All of TME called lead of climbing team Tsering Droje by this way.)
"I am Penba Dondrup. Penba Tashi, Nyssa and I are on the top."
"Congratulations. How is the wind?"
"It's blustery."
"Be carefully to keep your finger out of nip."
"Ok, we will!"
"How is Penba Tashi? Congratulations to him specially. Tashi Delek. "
"I am Penba Tashi," Said Tashi with heavy breath.
"Penba Tashi, I have heard you. Congratulations!"
"Thanks. Thank you for giving me this chance again! Thanks to every friends!"
"Congratulations again. Take care on your way back. Is it difficult for climbing?"
"Except K2, Mt. Gasherbrum I is the most difficult of all the mountains I have climbed. There are ropes in K2 not in here. The only thing we worry about is how to get down. This mountain is very steep with over 70 degree gradient."
"Please do remind everybody to slow down steadily."
"Ok, we will. Everybody in the Base Camp, see you after two days."
"I called your family yesterday. I have also told them about your good status. Everything is ok. Don't worry."
"Thank you. Agu and Jiji are both here. Everybody is on the top. We will take photos now."
The Chinese and Pakistani staffers in the Base Camp hugged with each other to celebrate the stirring moment.
At 9:31, the sound of Tsering Droje was heard. Samdrup said:" Agu, you are so toilsome. We all here send congratulations to you. Lodro, Penba Tashi and you have ascended all the 14 highest mountains in the earth. You have concluded with a satisfactory stop."
"Though I have a lot to speak, I am too excited to say even one word."
"I can understand. Today is a memorable date for your success. We are so happy."
"This is the last mountain. Everybody in the world know that Penba Tashi suffer grievous bodily harm. It's very difficult for us to climb the top of Gasherbrum I. I can't keep my tear."
"Thank you for Penba Tashi, Penba Dondrup and Sonam Tashi from Tibet Mountaineering School, thanks to assistant members of Pakistan, and thanks to all the national mountaineering friends. We can't succeed without their support! Don't forget them."
"Though we have ascended, there are some difficulties back. The snow is deeper. We have pulled 700 meter rope from the peak to the Camp III. But there are still some places without rope. We are discussing how to get down."
"Please take care when you get down. Don't be negligent."
Lots of foreign mountaineers, liaison officer and chef of Pakistan went to the Base Camp to express their congratulations.
At 10:04 am, the TME started to remove down. At 14:44, they got to the Camp III, and then reached Camp II at night.
The most stirring and rough moments have been gone, but the dialogue on the top will leave in the hearts of every team members of "China Tibet Mountaineering Expedition for world's 14 highest mountains".
Notes:
Gasherbrum means "Shining Wall" in local Pakistan language. There are 6 Gasherbrum peaks. Only Gasherbrum I is called "Hidden Peak". This peak is 8,068 meters high, and is the 11th tallest mountain on Earth. After an accident during the mountaineering in 2005, this is the second time for the "China Tibet Mountaineering Expedition for world's 14 highest mountains" challenging the mountain.
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