A river's bend

2010-02-01 08:03:00 | From:


 The snow-capped peak of Namjagbarwa. Wei Min
 
Rapeseed flowers in Bayi, capital of Nyingchi prefecture. Wu Xuemei

 
The lower reaches of the Yarlung Zangbo River makes a U-turn at Namjagbarwa Peak, in eastern Tibet. 

The Yarlung Zangpo's dramatic course creates the world's longest and deepest canyon in Tibet.

I had read a lot about the Yarlung Zangbo Grand Canyon in Nyingchi prefecture - regarded as the world's longest and deepest, stretching 496 km and averaging more than 5,000 m in depth - and longed for a chance to see it. I got to fulfill my dream last September, while assigned to work in the Tibet autonomous region's tourism bureau.

The Yarlung Zangbo River runs eastwards along the northern foothills of the Himalayas. The lower reaches of the river cut through the mountain range before making a sharp U-turn around Namjagbarwa Peak in Pai, Namling county, in eastern Tibet - the starting point of the Grand Canyon.

My friends and I head for Nyingchi, which lies 400 km to the east of Lhasa. From there, we climb Mt Serkyimla, at an altitude of 4,702 m and reach the town of Pailong.

We head east along the Sichuan-Tibet Highway, and then turn south along the Parlung Zangbo River, which is a major tributary of the Yarlung Zangbo.

Crossing a plank bridge, we climb up to Tangdong village, where a few houses stand scattered among patches of fields with highland barley, potato, radish and cabbage.

With the Parlung Zangbo River surging more than 30 m down the precipice, we crawl along like geckos.

We head to the cableway spanning 50 m across the river, which roars some 20 m beneath us.

After endless climbing, we finally reach Yumi village. After a night's rest, we continue our journey to the summit of Castle Peak.

To the west, clouds loom over majestic peaks that appear so close, you feel you can reach out and touch them.

We finally reach Zaqu village at about 6 pm and rush to see the great bend of the Yarlung Zangpo.

The cone-shaped Abra Oyama Peak is less than 100 m before us, covered in lush green. To its west, Parlung Zangbo joins the Yarlung Zangpo.

The Tibetans all exclaim "Barwa!" and look to the south. Namjagbarwa, the peak of the Barwa God, gradually emerges from the clouds and mist.

Soaring 7,782 m above sea level, Namjagbarwa is very important to the Tibetans, who believe only a chosen few get to see the peak.

I stand on the balcony of a villager's house, mesmerized by the sight before me.

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